Aliki’s Journal #13: Hell’s Gate Lives Up To Its Name
Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
Alex Haynie, nicknamed “Aliki” by some of his new Strathmore friends, is an associate at Strathmore University Foundation now in Kenya until December on a three-month exchange assignment to further the collaboration of SUF with Strathmore University. A 2008 graduate of Princeton University from Pennsylvania, Alex is interning with three of Strathmore’s departments: athletics, community outreach, and alumni development. He is keeping a journal of his experiences and impressions.
Clawing my way up a rock face in Hell’s Gate National Park, I tried not to think about what wouldhappen if I fell. Right hand up, left foot up, left hand up, right foot up. Rock crumbled in my fingertips as I checked a hand grip. Just a few more feet…
Amazing adventure today. We drove through an incredible rift valley, witnessed exotic animals in their beautiful natural habitats, scaled rock faces–and performed a successful rescue mission.
I went to Hell’s Gate National Park with a group of Strathmore University students on Sunday, November 23, 2008. Luis Franceschi leads the Mbagathi center next to Strathmore, and he periodically plans excursions for students who want to have a day outside of Nairobi. Today’s trip began with mass at 8am at the Basilica in Nairobi, called Holy Family Catholic Church, and then we went back to Strathmore briefly before hitting the highway.
Hell’s Gate National Park is an hour and a half northwest of Nairobi, and it’s located in the Great Rift Valley. The Great Rift Valley is a 6000km trench in the Earth’s crust that extends from Syria in the Middle East all the way to Mozambique in southern Africa.
During our drive to the park, we reached an area above the great rift and could see down into the valley, and the spectacular view stretched for miles in front of us. We descended into the valley around towards a lake called Naivasha, and we entered the national park.
At very close range, we saw giraffes, zebras, baboons, gazelles, warthogs, buffaloes, a few human beings, and huge rock faces on either side of us.
We drove around for a while checking out the animals and getting out of the car to get close to them, and then we parked at a picnic area and prepared for a hike into a gorge. Luis led us at a fast pace through narrow ravines of clay that had been formed by water eroding the surrounding walls, and the walls of the gorge were beautifully sculpted. The trekking was a bit difficult as there was not great footing, so I had to be careful that I didn’t fall into water or onto rocks below, as the path was often at an angle—nothing like walking down a sidewalk!
We made our way to a junction that let us choose more difficult climbing instead of heading to some natural hot springs, and so we decided we’d go another few kilometers and then break for lunch, and then swing back around to see the geysers.
Recent water flow through the canyon had caused lots of erosion, and had even dumped some big rocks
onto the path, which required us to make our way over the boulders (imagine a very narrow path, with a huge boulder dropped onto it—it made climbing over it tough!). We scaled a few ten-foot walls with some powerful grip strength and a lot of teamwork (lifting each other’s legs and holding onto outstretched arms for dear life), and after a little more hiking, we made our way to “The Wall”. Fifteen feet stood between us and lunch.
Imagine one of those movies where people are trying to emerge from a cave, and they’re almost to the top, but they have one last big wall to climb. We didn’t have the help of narrow walls to assist us with this one—it was a classic climbing wall, with some footholds here and there—and no ropes. The sunlight was pouring in from above the wall, (though it wasn’t that dark below) and we planned to break for lunch at the top, and then, since we would be out of the gorge, walk around a few km to see the hot springs.
Sudi jumped onto the wall first, and with some guidance from below about where to put his hands and where good footholds appeared to be, he scraped his stomach over the ledge and smiled down at us, fifteen feet below. Two more guys made their way up, and then we hurled a few back packs up to make the climbing easier.
One by one, we slowly made our way up the rock face. I went about mid-way through, and it was pretty scary. There were some pretty good holds, but some of the rock crumbled a little bit with a hard tug, and there was no room for error. Though the guys below could attempt to catch us, an awkwardly-falling, arms-flailing guy might be forced into the rock face if someone tried to catch him, which would maybe even exacerbate the tragedy of a fall. So we all carefully scaled the face—which didn’t seem that high from below, but from above was a different story—and Anthony was the last one on his way up the wall. Two guys were helping Anthony as he was near the top, and they were directing him with his last few moves before he pulled himself over, when a misplaced foot and a lost hand grip sent Anthony backwards. Landing awkwardly on the clay below, Anthony grabbed his leg and called out Luis’s name. A broken leg for sure.
We were in trouble. Anthony lay with a broken leg, below a fifteen foot wall, and above three km of tough hiking interspersed with ten foot drops. And no cell phone service. Sudi, another guy named Anthony, and Luis made their way precariously back down the cliff face to help Anthony, who was in the pit by himself, as he had been the last one to attempt to come over the wall. Anthony felt okay just lying there, but any movement sent pain through his body. We kept him immobilized for a while, and strange thoughts raced through my mind—this seemed like the situation I had read about in books and watched on TV—man down out in the wild, with no help anywhere close, and no easy solution in sight.
After seeing that Anthony was not in an immediate emergency (he felt okay just sitting there), Johnny,
Reward, Eric and I headed the rest of the way out of the gorge and found a nearby road. We ran about half a mile down the road that we thought would lead us to the nearest ranger station (and where our van was) and after a few minutes we got picked up by some guys in a jeep who were also touring the park. Back at the ranger station, we asked in English (but since that didn’t yield immediate results, the guys spoke in Swahili) if they had a stretcher and rope. They had neither, and said that the park’s stretcher was broken—we knew we needed rope though, so we sped the 7km back to the main gate at the entrance to the park. We got a lot of strong rope, and we managed to get part of a tent—strong canvass—that we hacked down to a manageable size with a nearby machete. We raced back across the park to the gorge and parked the van as close as we could to the spot where we had emerged.
When we got to The Wall, no one was around. We scrambled back to the van, a little confused that they had left, especially since we thought we had a full proof plan—strong rope and strong canvass would enable us to put Anthony inside, and while having his leg immobilized as best as possible, we could easily pull him up the short distance of flat rock face without bumping his leg. We found one of the guys along the road, and he led us down to a spot where park rangers had told the group to try to climb out.
The rangers wanted to pull Anthony up out of the gorge on a sixty foot, almost vertical, trail that led up from the bottom, using the canvass and rope we had gotten. (Park rangers from the first and nearest station that we had gone to had beaten us down to the gorge, and they took charge of how to get Anthony out.) This new path that the park rangers planned to use to get Anthony out was steep and dangerous, but, different from The Wall, someone could guide Anthony up the gorge. This path was incredibly dangerous not only for Anthony because of the amount his leg would get jostled, but also for all the people carrying and pulling Anthony out, as the footing was exceptionally slippery, even without carrying anything. Despite the steep incline of this path, it wasn’t possible to simply hoist Anthony up and out—the pitch of the hill required that everyone pull and drag Anthony slowly and incrementally, and unfortunately for Anthony, more painfully, along the dirt wall up out of the gorge.
Johnny, Reward, Eric, and I (along with a few others) tried to tell the park rangers that we should take Anthony back to The Wall (on a stretcher we were making out of the canvass and nearby solid tree branches) but they disregarded our advice, even when I persisted, and they worked on their own plan. The now-large group of park rangers was in control, and so we had to yield to them as we all helped guide Anthony up the steep hill.
After an hour of grunting from the lifters and moaning from Anthony as his leg was bumped, the rangers got Anthony onto grass sixty feet above, at the top of the ravine. Perhaps not the easiest way to get Anthony out of the canyon, at least he was safely at the top, and we didn’t have any other injuries during the process. We carried Anthony to the van a few hundred yards away, and then got ready to head back to Nairobi. Anthony was extremely tough throughout the whole thing, and didn’t complain once, but rather said sorry for holding us up! What courage!
We left the park and with some skillful driving by Luis on the highway back to the city, (around abandoned trucks that were parked ON the road, away from oncoming matatus (buses) that drove towards us at dusk with no headlights on unlined roads, and around the huge potholes in the road) we made it back to Nairobi safely. Everyone was in pretty good spirits, even Anthony, and it had been a wild day. Luis took Anthony to the hospital after we got back, so we’ll know more about his status soon.
Another day in Kenya, another adventure. We saw incredible beauty today and nearly managed a tough hike. We also saw distinctive Kenyan courage and cooperation. I’m praying for a quick recovery for Anthony.
Note: I have since learned that Anthony suffered a broken femur and underwent surgery today, Monday, November 24th. One of the other students reported that he’s doing ok.



























